Lockdown Sandwiches
how COVID made sandwiches great again (and where you can find some of the best ones)
I was never really a sandwich person. From high school to university, the word basically meant ‘Tesco meal-deals’. It brings up memories of school trips: long bus journeys, pop-music playlists, unfortunate rains, soggy bread, warm lettuce, cold meat.
In hindsight, my hostility towards the subject was also partly cultural. Cold sandwiches made for convenience are very much a western concept: it was invented by the 4th Earl of Sandwich so he can play card games without being interrupted by the need to lunch. In China, convenient lunches usually came in the form of hot rice boxes or freshly steamed buns.
When I graduated from university I was lucky to get a job that came with a workplace canteen, and I took full advantage of the hot lunches there. Up until March 2020, I would only eat sandwiches when I am out and about; my go-to choice being the Pret egg mayo.
Then in 2020 things changed.
If there is one good thing that came out of Britain’s endless lockdowns, it would be how restaurants have adapted to provide takeaway lunches — and many chose to have sandwiches on their menu to cater for the new work-from-home population.
Among these are some of my favourite places to eat. Thus, in the spirit of supporting local businesses, I started eating sandwiches more regularly.
So here comes a rundown of some of the best ‘things-in-bread’ I have had after one year of regular sandwiching.
The first restaurant sandwich I had was at the very beginning of summer, when the first national lockdown began to ease. Hospitality businesses had just began to find their feet in the new norm, and restaurants near Borough Market were among the first to re-open. I had always been a fan of Stoney Street by 26 Grains, so it made sense to pay them a visit when I saw ‘egg mayo bagel’ in their takeaway offerings.
I love my trusty Pret egg mayo, but this took things to a whole another level. Nothing beats a fresh bagel other than one that’s packed with warm and jammy soft boiled eggs. Not to forget the scatter of capers adding tang, fragrant herbs bringing freshness, and toasted seeds giving that nutty aroma and crunch. Filled generously, you will want to take a big bite but must end the bite carefully, or you are guaranteed to make a mess.
Parallel to Stoney Street towards the river you can find Flor. A bakery, restaurant, and bar ran by the team behind Lyle’s — the latter has been described as ‘the epitome of Modern British food in an historic location’ by The World's Best 50 Restaurants. I haven’t been to Lyle’s, but I have been to Flor several times for pastries and dining pre-lockdown.
In response to the pandemic, they introduced ASAP Pizza in the summer, in November they also started serving sandwiches, and both did not disappoint. Pizzas were inventive twists on classic flavours, with the boost of excellent seasonal ingredients. The base dough deserves a mention in itself — a chewy, nutty, and unique flavour profile made the crust well worth eating on its own.
OK, back to sandwiches.
Flor’s sandwiches rotate very frequently but unpredictably, mostly depending on demand/when ingredients run out. I had their braised ox tongue sandwich offered in December, with gherkins, capers, on really delicious bread that was soft but with a little bit of chew. The meat was cooked to perfection, and the condiments made sure it was satisfying but not overwhelming to eat. My only problem? They don’t keep their sandwiches on the menu for too long.
About 20 minutes walk from Flor is 40 Maltby Street — a wine shop and a restaurant/bar under one roof (or, more accurately — under one arch). It has always been a wonderful place to dine, and since lockdown they have introduced weekly heat-at-home menus and takeaway sandwiches, the latter now appearing in most ‘top sandwiches in London’ lists amongst dedicated sandwich shops.
Having had 2 sandwiches here, I can confirm they deserve the fame as both were mindblowingly good. The only thing stopping me from eating there every week is the fact that I don’t live in Bermondsey.
Their sandwiches rotate on a weekly basis, always cooked to order and featuring two options — one meat and one vegetarian. It is hard to predict or describe what will be next on the menu, all I can say is something seasonal and delicious — simple ingredients cooked cleverly — encased in slices of freshly made bouncy pillows of focaccia. Their portions are also extremely generous, no pudding or afternoon snacks needed after a single sandwich.
Given their success, it is unsurprising therefore, that the team in collaboration with chef Anna Tobias, braved the pandemic to open a new restaurant in Bloomsbury.
Cafe Deco opened its doors first as a takeaway and traiteur in November. I was looking forward to it so so much, that on the day of opening, I cycled in the pouring rain to get my hands on their first ever sandwich — chicken schnitzel in focaccia. In contrast to 40 Maltby St, the focaccia here is thinner and crispier. The schnitzel itself was delicately fried, the whole combination was unimaginably wonderfully light for a schnitzel sandwich.
Again, their menu rotates weekly, I have been back several times, and most recently their fried pork belly and kimchi sandwich was also worth a mention. This time the bread was sandwich loaf from St. John, thick cut, slathered with mustardy mayo; the belly of pork inside battered lightly, the kimchi tangy and sweet. A bite would deliver the crispiness of the meat and crunchiness from the kimchi, with the fatty pork melting onto the mayo then into soft bread. Sinful satisfaction.
Now that we are on the subject, I have also recently had a less delicate version of the schnitzel sandwich. Myddelton’s Deli is the home to Johnny Schnitzel, a very local chicken schnitzel specialist that I stumbled upon on a sunny day walk.
Without knowing what I was getting beforehand, their JS Special ciabatta was more than a pleasant surprise. The ciabatta was soft, the thin crispy schnitzel fried to order, and it came with melted cheddar and homemade coleslaw. Uncomplicated, generously portioned, deliciously made, one bite and it felt like sinking into a warm bold hug on a cold December day.
OK by now you have probably seen quite enough sandwiches, (and probably enough restaurants mentioned, ) but that was just the best few I have had since the pandemic. Over the course of the year, with the help of these restaurants, a word which was reserved for that supermarket isle of unexciting bread and virtually non-existent meat slices transformed into a symbol for weekly satisfying treats.
In addition to ‘corona-specials’ from restaurants, I also had wonderful food from a number of dedicated sandwich shops which also deserve a mention, namely Sons + Daughters, Beigel Bake, and The Good Egg.
So what makes a great sandwich? I guess awesome bread is a good start, whether it’s house sourdough, crispy focaccia, crusty baguettes, or chewy bagels… followed by seasonal ingredients and inventive cooking. Perhaps a pinch of uniqueness helps — something a little authentic and differentiating, the chef’s own mark on the dish.
Even when it’s egg mayo.
Appendix
I have not tried all the best sandwich suppliers I know, recommendations are always welcome. Currently on my list to try:
Brindisa Chorizo Roll at Borough Market
Bodega Rita’s
The Dusty Knuckle
Esters N16
Some (random) further reading: